Pole to Pole

A very exciting article on Hiking Poles (not)..

I decided to write this post after Geoff received an email from Richard (yes, he does actually read & send them..sometimes!!) he had just received his parcel with his hiking poles and seemed to be quite excited by it ... as these chaps are new to hiking, there has been a far amount of discussion as to the benefits or not to taking poles... Mark has decided against, mainly after Linda pointed out that for Mark they would be a trip hazard (!) now those that know Mark, can probably picture this or he'll leave them behind at one of the stops...

Why should you use hiking poles is perhaps the first question that may strike in your mind especially when you are a beginner. To get the right answer for this question you need to consider two things i.e. Safety and Comfort. Hiking poles are just balancing sticks which help you maintain good balance that is closely related to your overall safety and comfort. When you use two poles you move as you have four legs which allow you better comfort and safety. Experts say that by using hiking poles you switch to 4x4 mode of driving, using your two legs and two hands.

Although it is personal preference and an individual decision to use hiking poles they can prove to be very helpful for you during your hiking. They say you must use hiking poles especially when you are on your first hike. Then next time you will yourself carry these sticks with you by seeing their countless benefits.

Safety is the main reason of using hiking poles. Hiking poles, allow you to maintain good stability on the uncertain trails and when crossing fast streams or difficult terrains. Without having hiking poles you may fall down and may end up with injuries and accidents, and if you don't fall even then ache in knees or ankles is a common result.

Weight Distribution- Hiking poles or staffs help us to reduce weight on our feet and legs. The modern design of the hiking pole distributes the weight evenly on the whole body instead of legs. According to one estimate poles can reduce 15% of weight from your legs by spreading it on the arms and other parts of body. As they act like your legs so they also bear some of the weight. Especially when you are climbing on a steep hill, the poles bear much weight than in normal walking so the percentage of weight may rise even further.

Pacing- When climbing on a steep hill, you will find your hiking poles more helpful for pacing yourself. No doubt, hiking poles can easily speed you up by acquiring your weight and by allowing you to maintain good stability. You can maintain your speed without having so much huff and puff (needless to say more sweat!). And finally you will find that you have won over the trail without so much effort that really hurts. Certainly you will not feel pain in your back because poles allow you to walk in your natural position.

Comfort- Hiking with poles feels comfortable because you can walk in your natural posture while climbing up a hill or coming down. Your hands also remain in comfortable position; another better thing is that your hands remain above the heart which is also comfortable and beneficial as it improves the blood circulation that ensure less stressed body after the hiking. Many research studies and findings have clearly shown their cardiovascular, orthopaedic and other health benefits, as a result they advocate that not only circulation is improved but heart rate is also said to be reduced. Therefore, almost every seasoned and experienced hiker or trekker actually uses them and advises others to use them.

You must educate and familiarise yourself with your hiking poles and right techniques to use them. Then you will find that it only adds few extra pounds of weight to your packing but helps you in many ways. Sometimes the poles will seem relatively clumsy and frustrating to use and carry, but the benefits out way the downside.

Using your poles - Lots of videos on Youtube

 

So you have a pair of trekking poles. Now what?

Adjusting Pole Length

First off, your new poles need to be a suitable length:

   For general use, set pole height so that when the tip is at your foot, your elbow makes a roughly 90° bend. Setting the height a little shorter allows you to clear plants or rocks with less lifting.

   On a typical three-tier pole, set the top adjuster so the upper section is telescoped halfway. Then fix the lower section to achieve the desired height. Make any adjustments en route using the top adjuster.

Why? It is hard to load (bear down on) your poles with your arm grossly extended or bent. (See how much less force you can generate at 180° or 0° than at 90°, for example.) Setting pole segments as suggested lets you change pole length using just one adjuster, the closest and least likely to be muddy and contaminated with poison oak/ivy oil.

Attaching your Poles

   For each pole, put your hand up through the bottom of the strap loop and then pull the strap down by holding the grip.

   Adjust the length of the straps such that your fingers land where they fit on the grips.

   Hold the grip loosely. You don’t even need to close your bottom three fingers around the grip (a good way to ensure that you aren’t over-gripping). Change how your fingers (loosely) hold the grip as needed to prevent hand or wrist soreness.

   Keep your elbows close to your sides.

Why? You are making a joint by using the strap as a strong, tireless ligament. If you grip tightly, your hands and wrists will needlessly work and stress. Keeping your arms close to your sides conserves energy and keeps your poles travelling where the path is most likely to be clear: down the centre.

 

  Moving Poles Forward

 Now we have to move them forward, from “plant” to plant, as we hike.

   Jog the forearm up slightly to cause the pole to swing forward and then back down to plant the tip (for now don’t worry about where to plant). Or, move the pole with a slight flick of the wrist.

Why? These minor motions get the job done with a minimum of movement and energy.

 

Movement Patterns

   Alternate legs: Each pole goes forward when the opposite leg does. This pattern maximizes balance and lets your arms swing the way they do naturally when hiking.

   Parallel legs: Each pole goes forward when the same-side leg does. This pattern provides the most relief to your legs, so use it to minimize leg fatigue and stress as needed.

   Double (or simultaneous) pole: Both poles move forward at the same time. This pattern is useful for stepping up or down, or as a change up.

Load -The pedal-pushing analogy reminds us that it is essential that you load your poles! Without loading, you are basically just hauling stabilizers to engage in case of slipping. A lot of pole users are not loading enough. If your upper body doesn’t feel “worked” after an arduous trek, you are likely not loading enough.

Three Basic Techniques:  Gas, Brake, and Coast

Conventional advice tells us where to plant (and how long the poles should be) based on the type of terrain: flat, uphill, and downhill. Instead, the Gas, Brake, Coast Method focuses on what we want our poles to do for us:

   Adding thrust (or gassing), which you might do on flats, uphill, and even downhill.

   Slowing assistance (braking), on downhill stretches.

   Nothing (coasting), which you might choose on any terrain.

1: Gas

When you want forward thrust:

   Plant the tip of your pole at the rear of or behind your foot. On long assents, you can help maintain the roughly 90° bends at your elbows by lengthening your poles (as opposed to the common counsel to shorten them).

 

Why?

Planting and loading a pole to the rear gives forward thrust. Exactly how far you should plant to the rear depends on pole length, arm length, degree of body lean, the pitch of the trail, and other factors. Just plant it back where you most feel forward thrust.

 

2: Brake

When you need help in slowing down:

   Plant in front of your foot. For extended descents, you can again maintain your 90° lever by lengthening your poles.

   You can use an alternate hold when braking, in which you rest your palms atop the grips.

Why?

Planting and loading forward creates resistance. Again, you should plant in the forward location where you most feel the intended effect. On a long stretch, lengthening poles helps since the trail is dropping away from your pole tips.

3: Coast

When you don’t need gas or brakes, or when you need an upper body break.

   Plant, but do not load your poles; or

   Swing them one per hand, holding at their centre of gravity.

For hiking hands-free:

   Tuck your poles under one arm; or

   Attach them to your pack.

Why?

No load planting will give you a break. (It is, however, like leaving your car idling: It still uses some energy.) Swinging your poles brings them into the rhythm of your stride. Tucking can be cumbersome, but it does free your hands. Packing poles away gets them completely out of the way.

Other Techniques

4: Step Over

When you need to tread over a large obstacle, say a downed tree:

   Plant and load at or close to your foot.

 

Why? Planting at the foot creates lift.

5: Step Up

To go up a big step:

   Plant and load on the upper surface and step up. You might double pole here.

   As needed, un-strap and choke up on the poles to make them effectively shorter (or actually shorten your sticks).

 

Why? Planting on the surface you are stepping up to will give you more lift than planting at your foot, especially if you double pole. You may need a shorter effective (or actual) length to load the poles efficiently when they are planted up high.

6: Step Down

To move down a large step:

   Plant and load on the lower surface and step down. Again you might double pole here.

   Extend your arms. Or, for longer step-like descents, lengthen your poles.

Why? This will give you a strong braking assist as you step down, especially if you double pole.

7: Traverse

When you hike across a significant slope (off-trail hillsides, narrow switchback and ridge trails, beaches, etc.), your uphill pole and arm will ride unusually high, and your downhill pole and arm low. For a long traverse:

   Resize one or both poles accordingly (uphill side shorter, downhill side longer).

   On switchbacks, rather than readjusting length, simply switch poles when you change direction.

Why? Resizing maintains an efficient angle at the elbow. A longer downhill pole will also help keep you from leaning down the slope and falling should your pole slip.

8: Going Strapless (not to save getting suntan marks !)

When the terrain is rough and varied:

   Unstrap.

   Switch between techniques as needed.

Why? This will allow you to go rapidly from standard grip techniques to choking up for steps and traverses to coasting for scrambling up or down chutes and other hands-required territory. Always unstrap if you see something that may catch and hold your pole tip. If a pole locks when moving at a good pace, and you are tethered to it, bad things can happen!

Citation

"Effectively Using Hiking Poles: The Gas-Brake-Coast Method," by Skip Spitzer. BackpackingLight.com (ISSN 1537-0364).
http://backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/hiking_poles_technique.html, 2011-10-11 00:00:00-06.

Types of Trekking Poles

To start shopping, consider the health of your ankles, knees and hips. Keep in mind, too, whether you'll be using your poles on rugged or relatively flat terrain and the amount of weight you typically carry in your pack.

Poles can be categorized as follows:

Antishock poles: These offer internal springs that absorb shock when you walk downhill. With most poles, this feature can be turned off when it's not needed such as when you're walking uphill. The antishock feature is recommended if you have weak or damaged ankles, knees or hips. It adds a bit to the cost of the poles.

Standard poles: These do not have the antishock feature and are lighter and less expensive as a result. While they don't absorb as much impact as antishock poles when going downhill, they do provide a similar level of balance and support

Locking Mechanisms

Trekking poles are identified by their 2 or 3 interlocking sections. This adjustability (which typically ranges between 24 to 55 inches) lets you adapt the poles to your height and the terrain. If you're exceptionally tall or short, check the size range of each model to make sure it suits your body.

Most poles use a twist-and-lock system in which you find the desired length and then twist the pole hard to the right to hold. Some popular varieties:

·         DuoLock: This trademarked feature on several REI and Komperdell poles applies a wide area of pressure against the pole walls to achieve secure length settings.

·         FlickLock: This Black Diamond brand system is also strong. It's a lever-based, clamp-like feature that is quick and easy to adjust, even when wearing gloves.

·         Super Lock System: Leki's system uses an expander and screw setup that is consistently strong and dependable.

·         Stop Lock: This Komperdell system does not adjust pole length, but rather prevents pole sections from completely disengaging.

Proper pole length varies by the terrain:

·         When hiking uphill: Shorten the poles by a few inches to increase load-bearing pressure.

·         When going downhill: Lengthen the poles a few inches for better balance and control.

·         On level ground: Your forearms should be parallel to the ground when you're holding the grips and the tips are on the ground.

·         On traverses: The down-slope pole should be longer than the up-slope pole (or you can simply grab the pole lower if it comes with an extended grip).

 

Geoff bought these from Amazon £16

Pair of Trekrite Antishock Hiking Sticks / Walking Poles - Black

Poles are made from lightweight 6061 aluminium alloy and weigh just 300g per pole. They feature comfortable, moulded handles and adjustable wrist straps.
With three sections, they can be fully extended from 65 to 135cm, to suit your height and the gradient. This also means they telescope neatly away when not in use.
There's an extra anti-shock facility, which can be turned on or off.
They have removable snow baskets, which can be attached near the base of the pole and are designed to prevent sinkage in soft ground or snow. At the end of each pole there are sturdy, hard tungsten alloy trekking tips for mountain use, and removable rubber ferules for easy ground.